From Slovenia I made a loooong overnight train journey through Zagreb to Split, down on the Dalmation coast of Croatia. It wasn't terrible (there were only 2 of us in a compartment so I could lay down across 3 sleeps and sleep), and was MUCH better than the overnight bus trip I took later in my trip. So I arrived in Split in the wee hours of the morning and had lots of time to do some wandering before I could even check into my hostel. Split is the location of the palace of the 51st Roman Emperor, Diocletian, around 300 AD. The city has been built around the palace and it is fully integrated in the streets of the main pedestrian area of the city. A museum of the underground chambers of the palace is open to the public, as well as the bell tower. In one of the above ground alcoves a male a capella group was singing traditional Dalmation songs. It was beautiful and the acoustics were amazing. I climbed the bell tower (a couple hundred old, narrow steps) for a great view of the city and harbour.
Underground chambers
View from the Bell Tower
From Split I took a ferry to the island of Hvar, one of the more touristy stops along the coast. The water of the Adriatic Sea is clear and blue, but much colder than I expected! It is also the saltiest water I have swam in and would leave a visible film of white salt on your clothes and body. The majority of the beaches here are pebble, not sandy beaches so not quite as nice for lounging on (Unless you're willing to pay for a chair of course). It was HOT by this point too. 30+ everyday, without a cloud in the sky. I spent one morning kayaking with a group to nearby small island. It was a little hairy going across the channel as there are many boats whipping around, all of which are significantly larger and more powerful than my kayak!
An island off Hvar
Next was onto another, sleepier, island called Korcula. There actually was a sandy beach on this island which was a nice change, but the most fun part of this stop was the hostel I stayed at and the people in it. There was a great group of backpackers (both short and long term), including one who was a chef by trade. He had gotten in the habit of buying groceries everyday and making a delicious family style meal for the whole hostel (around 10 people when we were there). Everyone chipped in 5 bucks and we ate like kings (and queens). To go with our supper we had a very classy 2 litre coke bottle of red wine from a elderly man who didn't speak a word of English and made wine in his house. At 8 bucks for 2 litres, it was pretty decent wine. After this we headed into town for some drinks by the seaside, and ended the night crashing a Croatian neighbourhood party and having an interesting conversation with a gentleman there. This is a story better elaborated in person so ask me if you get the chance! All in all, a very good time.
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